Pub review: Albert's Schloss, London

I’ve been writing about pubs and bars for some 13 years now, give or take, which means I can remember when Albert’s Schloss first arrived on the scene. For people outside of the industry, excitable chatter travelled fast in 2015, as those who had frequented a new ‘alpine bier hall’ shared marvelling anecdotes of a venue they had never seen the likes of in England, let alone Manchester.

It caused a stir in the sector too, and not just because the people behind it, namely Revolution founders Roy Ellis and Neil Macleod, were widely known and respected within the on-trade, but because, just like those early guests, it did feel like a unique proposition in the industry. The beers were different in this huge, imposing venue; the food had an unwavering German theme; and the atmosphere was beyond wúnderbar, as stage shows and live entertainment drew large crowds in every day of the week. It was immediately an admirable force to be reckoned with. 

I think, like me, operators and consumers were looking forward to when the undoubtable expansion would take place for the brand, bringing its wurst, schnitzel and tank beer to a high street near them/me. But, after its powerhouse launch in 2015… nothing. It carried on trading to great acclaim through its single site in Manchester, while parent company Mission Mars looked at other opportunities, such as the acquisition and roll-out of admired pizza restaurant business Rudy’s. In fact, it wasn’t until 2021, some six years later, that Schloss number zwei appear in Birmingham, signalling, perhaps, that now was the time for the concept to stretch its legs. If it hadn’t been for Covid, then maybe this would have happened sooner. I’m sure the Germans have an impressive word for ‘good things come to those who wait’. 

Central dining space at Albert's Schloss, London

A year later, Albert’s Schloss arrived in Liverpool and the following summer Mission Mars revealed it was starting to build its first site in London, taking over the former Rainforest Café site on Shaftesbury Avenue in Piccadilly. A monster of a venue. Which is where I found myself last month, joining the long list of national and trade press who had been invited in to see what a Schloss in the capital was all about. Unsurprisingly, it made some immediate waves (which you would expect, given the level of PR that went into the launch), but I must admit I was taken aback a little when I read Grace Dent’s glowing review in The Guardian. I am fully aware of the quality of the place, but hadn’t anticipated a broadsheet to label the newest Schloss as ‘a stroke of genius’. It was a flying start.

But, you know what? I suppose it is. Much like when it arrived in Manchester all those years ago, there really isn’t anywhere like this in London and lord knows we need more quality choices when knocking around Piccadilly Circus – we can’t all go to The Devonshire, after all. Much like its other outposts, the initial striking aspect of this new London venue is its size. You arrive on a modest upper floor, packed with whimsical design touches and an impressive bar stretching from wall to wall (the venue actually has fives bars within it, measuring up to a total of 45 metres, so it should always be relatively easy to get a beer). But, like a top-end restaurant with its own secret wine cellar, the fun really starts when you make your way downstairs. Following a £7m investment, Mission Mars has created a venue that’s made up of 18,000 sq ft, has room for over 600 guests, has a central stage for live performances, and has an on-site bakery, which produces all of its swirls and pretzels – try the latter with the jalapeño poppers. 

Live music is on around the clock

Elsewhere on the ‘cook haus’ menu, you’ll find a healthy choice of mostly unhealthy German cuisine, which is fine by me. After a fiery pretzel, we calmed things down with a deep, rich meatball and cambozola alongside the alpine krokette, which, with its sweet Gruyère cheese and smoked bacon filling, sat beautifully alongside a frosty Hofbrau Helles. Speaking of beer, the taps offer a fine balance between predictable breweries for this style of concept – Pilsner Urquell, Stiegl Goldbrau, Erdinger Weissbrau – and some lesser known in England like Paulaner Munich and Fruli. With 13 on tap (including cider), one could argue that somewhere that calls itself a ‘bier palace’ may need to push the boat out a little further, but with a location slap bang in the middle of Piccadilly Circus and accommodating the tourist clientele that comes with that, I suppose it’s wise not to get too adventurous.       

Back to the food then and if you like meat, you’ve come to the right p(a)lace. Albert’s Schloss does a fine schnitzel and, given its menu includes a ‘haus of schnitzel’, you can choose from four of the things. Seeing as we ordered ours alongside the ‘sausage fest’ (bratwurst sausage, kaiserwurst sausage, chilli beef frankfurter, Bavarian potato salad, green salad, Schloss kraut, pickles, haus mustard, curry ketchup), we went vanilla and kept things simple with the Schloss schnitzel – salsa verde, aioli, charred lemon, served with herbed new potatoes. It was glorious. 

There are secluded spots all around the site

Like the venue itself, there was much more to explore on the menu, but that will have to be for another day. I left the newest Albert’s Schloss more contemplative than I ordinarily would be after checking out a recent opening. I think this is down to the sheer scale of the site and the investment that has gone into it, combined with the mix of clientele that the location will attract. The brand has such a positive reputation in the trade, with so many already praising its fourth arrival, but there is no doubt that this site is also geared up for capturing those hungry tourists fresh out of the M&M store. In which case, will it put off other guests keen on experiencing the very best that London has to offer? Because, make no mistake about it, this is one of the most impressive venues in London right now. If Mission Mars can maintain that zeitgeist-like appeal while capitalising on the custom of those taking selfies in front of London buses, then prost to them – it will be a roaring success for years to come.   

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